Modifications had to be made to the rear seat
rudder pedals. They are very soft and will bend
easily. It could be that the plane could be flown
from the rear seat as it comes, but I wouldn't want
to try it.
I used extra pieces of aluminum screwed to the
bottom of the pedals to strengthen them, but it
might be less work to fabricate something from
heavier material to start with.
Big red light is an over-temperature light. A small
tachometer and one hand altimeter is fitted as well
as airspeed.
The air speed indicator was giving different readings
than the front seat. I found the front seat to be fairly
accurate, but the rear seat was very slow. I always
fly with no doors, but the air comes in and swirls
around in the back and makes pressure on the ASI.
The cure was to put a static port tube on the
bottom of the plane right under the rear seat ASI.
This tube sticks down about 2 inches to stay clear
of the landing gear and the tube faces to the rear.
Now they read the same.
Drain holes and inspection plates were added
everywhere, just in case someone gets air sick and
I need to hose it out. Hasn't happened yet.
rudder pedals. They are very soft and will bend
easily. It could be that the plane could be flown
from the rear seat as it comes, but I wouldn't want
to try it.
I used extra pieces of aluminum screwed to the
bottom of the pedals to strengthen them, but it
might be less work to fabricate something from
heavier material to start with.
Big red light is an over-temperature light. A small
tachometer and one hand altimeter is fitted as well
as airspeed.
The air speed indicator was giving different readings
than the front seat. I found the front seat to be fairly
accurate, but the rear seat was very slow. I always
fly with no doors, but the air comes in and swirls
around in the back and makes pressure on the ASI.
The cure was to put a static port tube on the
bottom of the plane right under the rear seat ASI.
This tube sticks down about 2 inches to stay clear
of the landing gear and the tube faces to the rear.
Now they read the same.
Drain holes and inspection plates were added
everywhere, just in case someone gets air sick and
I need to hose it out. Hasn't happened yet.
ASAP sells a very nice trim kit for the interior, but I made my own from a very light outdoor carpet runner.
"refuels" the in-wing tank.. I feel this is much safer, as the engine always draws from the same source, and if the strut tank goes dry, it harms nothing. An indicator light on the
front panel reminds me I am transferring fuel. The photos below were taken during construction. Push-to-talk switch wire not plugged into radio yet.
- Fuel system is rigged so I draw fuel only from the "in-wing" tanks which are coupled together as one. ( 16 gal.)
"refuels" the in-wing tank.. I feel this is much safer, as the engine always draws from the same source, and if the strut tank goes dry, it harms nothing. An indicator light on the
front panel reminds me I am transferring fuel. The photos below were taken during construction. Push-to-talk switch wire not plugged into radio yet.
This photo shows the battery box, throttle handle, choke, and differential brake lever.
The seats are made of very thin fiberglass. They
are very nicely covered and are very
comfortable. The thin material makes for frequent
cracking. My front seat has undergone repairs to
the fiberglass 4 times over 8 years. I have laid on
more layers of fiberglass to make them stronger.
If I had it to do over I would order my kit
without a front seat and see if I could not find a
more durable and possibly wider seat.
The Chinook has been very strong and held up
well over time. My changes here are my own and
were done to suit me, and I do not endorse any
of these changes for others. They were done to
fix what I thought were problem or
improvements that could be made. You may
think differently. Use your own good judgement.
I put this site up because I had difficulty finding
reliable information before I bought my kit.
I wished I was able to read what problems other
had before I started my construction. It sure
would have saved me some time and effort. It
was difficult to find someone that actually built
and flew a Chinook. It seems many build them,
then quickly sell when they find out they have a
very impractical airplane.
are very nicely covered and are very
comfortable. The thin material makes for frequent
cracking. My front seat has undergone repairs to
the fiberglass 4 times over 8 years. I have laid on
more layers of fiberglass to make them stronger.
If I had it to do over I would order my kit
without a front seat and see if I could not find a
more durable and possibly wider seat.
The Chinook has been very strong and held up
well over time. My changes here are my own and
were done to suit me, and I do not endorse any
of these changes for others. They were done to
fix what I thought were problem or
improvements that could be made. You may
think differently. Use your own good judgement.
I put this site up because I had difficulty finding
reliable information before I bought my kit.
I wished I was able to read what problems other
had before I started my construction. It sure
would have saved me some time and effort. It
was difficult to find someone that actually built
and flew a Chinook. It seems many build them,
then quickly sell when they find out they have a
very impractical airplane.
| Modifications to Chinook Rear & Front seat. |
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