The battery was moved forward, as I moved the engine about 1 1/4 inch to the rear. A standard
lawn & garden tractor battery was used as it is easily available for less than $20 at any Walmart.
Heavy wire was used to connect it to the engine. The solenoid was mounted close to the battery,
under the seat to prevent fire in the event of a crash. ( Not good to have a long hot wire.) Marine
battery box..
Brace between the side-rail and floor is really needed as everyone sits on the edge of the cabin
when they get in or out.
lawn & garden tractor battery was used as it is easily available for less than $20 at any Walmart.
Heavy wire was used to connect it to the engine. The solenoid was mounted close to the battery,
under the seat to prevent fire in the event of a crash. ( Not good to have a long hot wire.) Marine
battery box..
Brace between the side-rail and floor is really needed as everyone sits on the edge of the cabin
when they get in or out.
After 39 hours of construction, Chinook looked like this.
Much time is spent inventorying all parts and fasteners. Be sure
to open bags and examine everything closely.
Much time is spent inventorying all parts and fasteners. Be sure
to open bags and examine everything closely.
| A grab-handle was added to the root tube over both the rear and front seats. This is a big help in getting in or out. Front handle I fabricated, rear handle was hardware store item. These handles are important Aluminum firewall was added in an attempt to cut engine noise and heat. Should have extended lower. If right handed, figure flaps to work with left hand. |
| It would appear that the control stick blocks the view of the lower instruments, but this is not true if you have both eyes open. You are not aware of the stick. This effect cannot be photographed. I didn't want my view hindered in any way, so panel was made small and doesn't stick into line of sight. Guess you could make one into a "T" if you are a gage lover. Light weight recycled plastic floor runner was purchased at a local hardware store. It added 4 pounds, but improved the looks. Bags were added later as I travel a lot and carrying oil, tie-downs, life jackets, tools,gloves, maps, log book, spare batteries for GPS required them. Lawn tractor battery was placed in a boating battery box suitable for boating. Location is forward so that I could move the Rotax 582 engine 1 inch to the rear to get the thrust angle I wanted. ELT is located under the rear seat. Magnetic boating compass is now located on the floor just ahead of the control stick. |
| <---The split brake handle allows left, right, or both brakes to be applied. The right brake is shown being pulled in the photo. Handle is located close to throttle, so both brake and throttle can be used at the same time. Brakes on the Chinook are very good, if you have enough leverage. |
| Chinook +2 construction and modification photos and notes: |
Rear seat throttle lever has an adjustable fiction damper. This
was a bad location for the lever. Passenger can bump it, and
it would be difficult to work from the rear seat if doors were
installed.
was a bad location for the lever. Passenger can bump it, and
it would be difficult to work from the rear seat if doors were
installed.
The front seat throttle lever is very complicated on my Chinook. An aluminum shaft running in ball bearings
transfers motion to push-rod under the seat. The rod rotates a shaft running in ball bearings under the cross
member, to transfer motion to another push rod running along the left side of the rear seat area. It works well,
but is way too complicated. Better to have throttle and brake levers extend back into the rear seat area and
reach forward to control them. Spring helps counter the dual carburetor tension.
You can also see the stock rear seat rudder petals. These bend like taffy and MUST be replaced or modified
before attempting to fly from the rear seat. They are a real joke. I hope the factory has corrected this in their
kits.
transfers motion to push-rod under the seat. The rod rotates a shaft running in ball bearings under the cross
member, to transfer motion to another push rod running along the left side of the rear seat area. It works well,
but is way too complicated. Better to have throttle and brake levers extend back into the rear seat area and
reach forward to control them. Spring helps counter the dual carburetor tension.
You can also see the stock rear seat rudder petals. These bend like taffy and MUST be replaced or modified
before attempting to fly from the rear seat. They are a real joke. I hope the factory has corrected this in their
kits.
| Here is another view of the split handle brake lever arrangement. The split lever was made by bolting two rectangular aluminum bars together, turning them round and knurling. Cable stay was made from heavy aluminum angle. Brakes as they come from ASAP use a splitter, but too much lost motion and mechanical disadvantage. This photo also shows the starting enrichment lever. ( choke ) I don't use a primer as it is easy to flood an inverted engine with them, and it is a bugger to clear the flood. ( If I had it to do again, I would put the starter button on the end of the enrichment lever making starts one handed.) |
Landing gear rubber is from a Taylorcraft. These are
endless loops and very strong. A tire iron is used to
pull the loop around the bolt, and nut and washer retain
it. A larger radius plastic bushing keeps the heavy
cords from kinking too tightly on the bolt.
The plane should have no "suspension" as it would
wallow and landings would be more difficult. Gear
should give, only if it hits too hard. The rubber that
comes with the kit is a joke. Brakes are excellent.
endless loops and very strong. A tire iron is used to
pull the loop around the bolt, and nut and washer retain
it. A larger radius plastic bushing keeps the heavy
cords from kinking too tightly on the bolt.
The plane should have no "suspension" as it would
wallow and landings would be more difficult. Gear
should give, only if it hits too hard. The rubber that
comes with the kit is a joke. Brakes are excellent.
| Back seat view of front seat throttle and brake. |
| <---This brace was added |
| This is my trim device. A brass stud mounted under the seat fits into a plate with a locating pin. An aluminum drum with two grooves on it is rotated on the brass stud. ( Pulling out the drum pulls it off of the locating pit used to index it. ) Strings wound opposite directions pull on tension springs hooked to the control stick mount. Turning the drum puts bias on the stick by pulling on the springs. It works very well and is simple. The Chinook really needs no trim, and I flew mine the first 5 years without it. |
It is a real good idea to be SURE you know how you want your plane
to be when it is finished. It is easy to brace things and add brackets
before covering, but not so easy after that.
I called others that had built Chinooks and learned what changes they
would make. That is how a lot of the modifications here were born.
If a fellow says the edge of the cockpit rail bends under heavy weight,
add braces BEFORE YOU COVER. Be sure to talk with experienced
Chinook pilots, not someone that doesn't have enough time on it to
know how it will hold up.
Covering is very easy and the video tape ASAP supplies makes it fun.
Resist the temptation to jump in and start covering until you are sure you
have your plane the way YOU want it.
You will note in the photos that I added extra braces to the seat, as I
felt this area is weak. My opinion of the front seat provided is that the
plastic fiberglass seat is way too weak. If I had it to do over again I
would purchase a larger, stronger seat. I think one from a
Quicksilver might work fine.
Remember: If your seat collapses on the controls due too many Gs
or a bump, you won't be happy.
to be when it is finished. It is easy to brace things and add brackets
before covering, but not so easy after that.
I called others that had built Chinooks and learned what changes they
would make. That is how a lot of the modifications here were born.
If a fellow says the edge of the cockpit rail bends under heavy weight,
add braces BEFORE YOU COVER. Be sure to talk with experienced
Chinook pilots, not someone that doesn't have enough time on it to
know how it will hold up.
Covering is very easy and the video tape ASAP supplies makes it fun.
Resist the temptation to jump in and start covering until you are sure you
have your plane the way YOU want it.
You will note in the photos that I added extra braces to the seat, as I
felt this area is weak. My opinion of the front seat provided is that the
plastic fiberglass seat is way too weak. If I had it to do over again I
would purchase a larger, stronger seat. I think one from a
Quicksilver might work fine.
Remember: If your seat collapses on the controls due too many Gs
or a bump, you won't be happy.
 |  |  |  |  |  |  |  |  |  |  |  |
 |  |  |