| Chinook instrument panel |
Since starting this site, I have received a lot of questions and comments about my panel.
This panel was made from odds and ends I had on hand.
The panel can be constructed of wood, plastic, or aluminum as shown here. It also could
be made into a "T" configuration to hold more instruments if you are into that sort of thing.
A compass was later mounted on the floor.
Instrument holes were cut using a slow-speed drill press and hole saws. These saws will
cost about $12 each. Wood was used for a backup to saw into. Multiple panels can be
made by stack sawing.
The holes where the four screws attach the panel were cut oversize to add rubber
grommets for vibration isolation, but due to the Lord mounts, my airframe has no
vibration anyway.
Should you use plastic or Plexiglas, the edges must be smoothed with a knife edge held at
right angles to shave and radius the edges.
Control stick was shortened.
This panel was made from odds and ends I had on hand.
The panel can be constructed of wood, plastic, or aluminum as shown here. It also could
be made into a "T" configuration to hold more instruments if you are into that sort of thing.
A compass was later mounted on the floor.
Instrument holes were cut using a slow-speed drill press and hole saws. These saws will
cost about $12 each. Wood was used for a backup to saw into. Multiple panels can be
made by stack sawing.
The holes where the four screws attach the panel were cut oversize to add rubber
grommets for vibration isolation, but due to the Lord mounts, my airframe has no
vibration anyway.
Should you use plastic or Plexiglas, the edges must be smoothed with a knife edge held at
right angles to shave and radius the edges.
Control stick was shortened.
The photo above shows an engine turned aluminum panel, but this created too
much glare and reflection, so it was bead blasted to a matt finish, then painted
with black "hammerite" paint.
Two soft aluminum "hydraulic line" tubes are used to support the top edge. Ends
of the tubes were flattened and front edge was riveted with one rivet in each
tube to the lower floor tube in the nose. The opposite end is riveted to a piece
of aluminum angle. Holes were drilled and tapped into this angle for screws
through the rubber grommets.
Lower edge of the panel was fastened to a piece of solid 3/8 inch square
aluminum that runs between the rudder pedal supports..
The panel can be removed very easily with the four screws and unplugging a
trailer connector. Trailer plug connectors are used on the engine also.
The two aluminum brace tubes are covered with a very thin sheet of aluminum
to strengthen and prevent racking.
much glare and reflection, so it was bead blasted to a matt finish, then painted
with black "hammerite" paint.
Two soft aluminum "hydraulic line" tubes are used to support the top edge. Ends
of the tubes were flattened and front edge was riveted with one rivet in each
tube to the lower floor tube in the nose. The opposite end is riveted to a piece
of aluminum angle. Holes were drilled and tapped into this angle for screws
through the rubber grommets.
Lower edge of the panel was fastened to a piece of solid 3/8 inch square
aluminum that runs between the rudder pedal supports..
The panel can be removed very easily with the four screws and unplugging a
trailer connector. Trailer plug connectors are used on the engine also.
The two aluminum brace tubes are covered with a very thin sheet of aluminum
to strengthen and prevent racking.
During construction tubing for the rear seat ASI and wiring was added to the rear seat along with the panel which I enclosed the top of the box. Better "Push-Pull" Bowden
cables are available with far less play, but I have not used them yet in this Chinook. Wheel brake cables can be seen here. For a parking brake I just carry a Bungee Cord in
my bag. The Bungee is tied to the split brake lever handle and hooked on the overhead handle. Simple, but it works. Emergency locating transmitter ( ELT ) was later added
and mounted under the rear seat with antenna behind the seat.
cables are available with far less play, but I have not used them yet in this Chinook. Wheel brake cables can be seen here. For a parking brake I just carry a Bungee Cord in
my bag. The Bungee is tied to the split brake lever handle and hooked on the overhead handle. Simple, but it works. Emergency locating transmitter ( ELT ) was later added
and mounted under the rear seat with antenna behind the seat.
| You can also see here in these photos the start of front seat reinforcements, throttle shaft positioning, location of ASI, altimeter, tachometer, water temperature, EGT, fuses, and all switches. A boat type compass was added later to the floor board right in front of the control stick. |
| <---- Best modification I have seen to the rear seat area, is the replacement of this straight tube with a bent one. Bend was made with a simple conduit bender right here. This made the rear seat much wider. I still cannot figure how a Chinook could carry a passenger if it had rear doors. Note that the shoulder width of a friend is wider than the rear seat area. ( Maybe you could carry a child? ) The straight vertical tube was replaced with a longer one. Easy modification, and I sure wish I did it. I flew a plane with this modification and it flew great and I could see no difference in speed. |
After getting this all
figured out, then
you remove
everything, then
cover and paint.
figured out, then
you remove
everything, then
cover and paint.
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| <----- A small block of aluminum is riveted to bottom of seat mount. This is drilled and tapped for a 10-32 thread to make seat removal easy. No nuts !!! |