| Motor Mount for the Chinook + 2 with a Rotax 582 & C gearbox |
I did not use the ASAP motor mount. It was designed for a "C"
gearbox, but it pointed the propeller up into the air at a 12 degree angle
from level flight. I thought it might not be very efficient.
The original mount also did not hold the engine up very close to the
root tube, and this restricted the size of the prop that could be used.
I developed my own mount using aluminum angle as shown here.
The rubber motor mounts were from a Quicksilver and are made by
Lord Corporation. Call them for a distributor.
I moved the engine about 1 1/4 inches to the rear and was able to get
the thrust line much straighter, and still use a 66 inch 3 blade prop.
( This explains why I moved the battery forward.)
I should also point out that I have never flown a Chinook +2 with the
factory thrust angles, so I cannot really say this modification makes any
difference. I do know that an increase in throttle makes for only a very
slight climb. At higher throttle settings the plane just goes faster, and
almost no pressure or trim is required on the control stick.
I have never constructed the doors for my Chinook as I like the open
plane feeling, but top speed is 95 MPH without doors.
gearbox, but it pointed the propeller up into the air at a 12 degree angle
from level flight. I thought it might not be very efficient.
The original mount also did not hold the engine up very close to the
root tube, and this restricted the size of the prop that could be used.
I developed my own mount using aluminum angle as shown here.
The rubber motor mounts were from a Quicksilver and are made by
Lord Corporation. Call them for a distributor.
I moved the engine about 1 1/4 inches to the rear and was able to get
the thrust line much straighter, and still use a 66 inch 3 blade prop.
( This explains why I moved the battery forward.)
I should also point out that I have never flown a Chinook +2 with the
factory thrust angles, so I cannot really say this modification makes any
difference. I do know that an increase in throttle makes for only a very
slight climb. At higher throttle settings the plane just goes faster, and
almost no pressure or trim is required on the control stick.
I have never constructed the doors for my Chinook as I like the open
plane feeling, but top speed is 95 MPH without doors.
The black tube shown at left takes the thrust. A small Lord mount is on the
end of the tube. I am not sure of the value of this, but I was looking to
control engine and gearbox motion. Many mounting systems I see allow the
engine to bob around with changes in thrust, and the thrust line is not well
controlled. I also had nightmares about "what if the engine came loose?"
All of this might be a bit of overkill, but it was easy to make.
All of this was done to get the prop thrust more in-line with the stabilizer so
the two were not fighting each other.
Changes you will see here are a one inch spacer on the prop hub that was
machined from aluminum. This gives more clearance between the gusset
bracket and radiator.
You will notice the handle on the body tube just ahead of the fin. This was
added to help move the plane. You cannot lift the tail with this handle as it is
far too heavy.
The muffler and the mounting system were designed because I had a used
engine from a Quicksilver and wanted to use these parts.
I use a GPL electric starter and retained the pull starter. I have never had
any problems with the GPL starter over the last 8 years.
The rope pull starter was removed this year to save weight as it was never
used.
In the view at left, you can see my little bottle for coolant. Nothing more
than a plastic cap. No pressure in this cooling system, and coolant level
visible every time I get in the plane. Vent hose takes any overflow out under
the plane, and retains the cap.
end of the tube. I am not sure of the value of this, but I was looking to
control engine and gearbox motion. Many mounting systems I see allow the
engine to bob around with changes in thrust, and the thrust line is not well
controlled. I also had nightmares about "what if the engine came loose?"
All of this might be a bit of overkill, but it was easy to make.
All of this was done to get the prop thrust more in-line with the stabilizer so
the two were not fighting each other.
Changes you will see here are a one inch spacer on the prop hub that was
machined from aluminum. This gives more clearance between the gusset
bracket and radiator.
You will notice the handle on the body tube just ahead of the fin. This was
added to help move the plane. You cannot lift the tail with this handle as it is
far too heavy.
The muffler and the mounting system were designed because I had a used
engine from a Quicksilver and wanted to use these parts.
I use a GPL electric starter and retained the pull starter. I have never had
any problems with the GPL starter over the last 8 years.
The rope pull starter was removed this year to save weight as it was never
used.
In the view at left, you can see my little bottle for coolant. Nothing more
than a plastic cap. No pressure in this cooling system, and coolant level
visible every time I get in the plane. Vent hose takes any overflow out under
the plane, and retains the cap.
This is how it looks in the air. As you can see, visibility is excellent and wind is minimal in the front seat. I fly with the ball cap The trim tab that came with the kit was added when it
was found that while it would glide straight, at cruise power I had a slight turn generated by the swirling air from the prop pushing on the side of the fin. Adding the trim tab allows
me to cruise with my feet off of the rubber pedals when needed.
was found that while it would glide straight, at cruise power I had a slight turn generated by the swirling air from the prop pushing on the side of the fin. Adding the trim tab allows
me to cruise with my feet off of the rubber pedals when needed.
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