What is it like to fly a Chinook?
The Chinook + 2 is easy to fly. It will glide a long way, and the performance figures given by
ASAP are accurate.
My Chinook is powered by a Rotax 582 that I purchased used with about 650 hours on it. I
consider it overpowered. More on the engine later.

Landings are easy.  Just fly low and hold the main wheels off as it slows. Don't let the mains
touch because if you do, the weight behind them changes the angle of attack, and up you go
again. Fly like you want to drag the tail-wheel first and you will make a good 3 point landing.
Hold the stick full back after you are down to keep it stalled because this plane really wants to
fly.
Wheel landings require a good bit of speed due to main wheel location, and addition of some
flaperons helps.

Takeoff requires a lot of left rudder to keep it straight at first, then ease off as it picks up speed.
Tail will come up in 100 ft or so. You can't nose over, as the wing presents itself to the air
stream, and there is no prop in front to strike the ground.
Wind is minimal in the front seat. I fly wearing a baseball hat, and have never constructed
the doors. More wind in the rear seat. Shoulder width is too narrow in the rear seat to fly
with door and a passenger. Some radiant heat from the muffler can be felt in the rear seat.

Except at full power it is very quiet. Makes about the same noise as my lawnmower. Engine
is far behind the front seat. This craft is equipped with intercom and radio, and  a mic muff is
required on rear seat only. A leather mic cover that has a small hole in it cuts engine noise to
a minimum in the intercom.
These microphone modifications are required for the rear seat. The guy that brings his own
headset for the rear seat finds out very quickly it won't work.
I use the cheapest AVCOM headset and intercom. Radio is excellent and very clear. I use
the rubber duck antenna that came with the handheld, but mount the rubber duck over my
head with antenna extension wire from Radio Shack. ICOM A4 Radio.
Modifications I have made and the reasons for them.
  • Control stick shortened slightly and push-to-talk button added.
  • Aluminum seat supports added.
  • Vertical instrument panel to increase the view.
  • Engine panel and switches at the left side.
  • Split handbrake handle for differential braking.
  • Throttle handle linkage for increased throw.
  • Cross-bar at windscreen eye level replaced with solid turned down
    aluminum to 3/8 inch.
  • Trailer plugs on panels for easy quick removal. Brace between siderail
    and floor to prevent bending
  • Cover on rear panel..Battery box moved forward for C/G.
In very short order I found that there was a LOT of play in the cross-hole worn
on the control sticks. If the factory only put a slug inside the stick before flattening
it, there would be no problem here.
To solve this, the sticks were cut and a machined hub was installed. This allows
the rear seat control stick to be removed to allow for handicapped passengers or
for hauling a duffel bag with camping gear in the rear seat.
Radio "Push to talk" wire is threaded down the inside of the control stick.
Intercom is not used when flying solo. I just plug right into the radio patch cord.
Strobe box was mounted below the engine as shown here. The flash head was
placed on top of the tail fin so I don't get run over.

Below:
The stock Rotax 582 Ignition Coils were mounted above the strobe box. The coils
are not mounted on the engine because I wanted to keep them from heat and
vibration, and MOST OF ALL make it easy to remove and tear down the engine.
Automotive resistor wires ( Standard 7mm ) are used for radio suppression.
KEY WEST voltage regulator shown.
This area also has my fuel tank drain valve. I learned the hard way, don't use a
plastic fuel drain valve, as they might start leaking.
Inspection holes have covers.
Chinook +2 comes in for a landing in a hayfield.